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O Fortuna, velut luna, semper variabilis…

The day really had a glorious beginning: my faithful Francesco the bus driver was back! Despite the half hour traffic jam, I arrived at Pompei without being sick, although a bit queasy once more. We started our trip by sitting down on a terrace and having a coffee (which I declined, my stomach was too upset) and then by queueing the entrance line. While Leon actually did that for us, we took a look at the… how can I respectfully describe this? These people were found in the ash layers, and the empty spaces in the ashes, left behind by their corpses, were filled with plaster, so we can actually make out their shapes around their skeletons. We were really stunned by this, and actually even aggravated by the children – too young to fully comprehend that these were once actual people – who were wooping and cheering at the sight.

And then we entered the site, and made our way passing by some graves, and finally entering the city.

So we wandered around, Daan holding the map, like you would wander around a modern city, deciding which places we definitely wanted to see. In the Fuller’s house we went, through the temple of Isis, climbing the steps of the theatre, and having our picknick in a shadowy grove.

After a short break we continued through the streets, marvelling at every corner, in every doorstep, at every view. I must admit, it was nothing like I expected. I was told about low structures that you could see through, only fundaments remaining, and here I was, in a complete city, the Roman spirit wafting through every doorway… I admired the baths with the hypocaustum and the bowling alley, took a long look at the mosaic of the boar…

And then, Fortuna struck…

As I was stepping down into the street, I turned around for a last look at that mosaic, not really minding my step, and… I heard a loud snap, a blinding pain, and I fell down, grasping my right ankle. I knew right away: this was a serious sprain, not just a mere twist, but nothing was broken. A guard summoned the medics, as I lay down on the pavement. And, much to my surprise, every passing guide asked how I was, if someone was alerted, if I needed anything. After a few minutes, I asked the rest of the group to continue, since this was going to take a while, and Leon stayed by my side.

The infirmiere arrived, took a quick assessment, and while I was filling out some papers, the guy took out a lot of bandages, and set to work, right there and then on the Pompei pavement. He sprayed the ankle, swaddled it in a thick layer of fluff cotton, and measured out a length of premade plaster. And yes, he made me a half cast right there on the spot. It took like a quarter of an hour to dry completely, and I was set. Alas, I couldn’t walk. So the lady fetched me a pair of crutches, and they escorted me to the exit, as neither they nor the crutches could leave the premises. And there, on the outside pavement, they left me standing, after a very good, swift and free treatment.
Luckily there still was Leon to take care of me, so he helped me cross the street and onto a terrace chair, and we ordered a coffee. I do admit, at that very moment I started crying. The pain, the exhaustion of having to walk that way and all those steps with crutches, and the mere misery of it all. No more Pompei for me, and probably a couple of weeks immobility. And I definitely need to go to work, this close to the exams. And I need to get home too, through the airport and all. Oh well…

Leon called Mina at the Villa, and she would go out and fetch me a pair of crutches; he also went to the ATM for me and got me some extra money, and the bus would come and pick me up on the spot.

So I sat there, being pretty miserable, on the terrace outside Pompei Scavi. There was this guy prancing about, dressed up like a praetorian, making money out of tourists who wanted a picture with him. He came up to me at one point, asking me what had happened. I explained, and he said that he was a gladiator. So I laughed, and said he was not, he was an officer in the army. He looked very alarmed, mockingly, and said that I should hush up! Of course he was a praetorian, but the people don’t know that, and they preferred a gladiator. Anyway, this guy really made me laugh, and I needed that. He even made me take a selfie ^^

Later on, he came back and attached a trinket to my big toe, “a good luck charm” he said. And then he was gone before I even could thank him. So sweet…

Anyway, we got home, I went to lie down, and gradually I did feel better. Everyone was so nice and so concerned…

 

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Naples, Monday 2nd of May

Waking up in the Villa Vergiliana was much more agreeable, I must admit. I have this really nice roommate for the stay, Juliana who lives in the UK but originally comes from Brazil, and has this typical Southern temperament and sense of humour. I like it!

We woke up at seven, and I really had to hurry to take a shower and make it to the nice breakfast at half past. And, with my warped sense of time, I had to hurry once more to get to the Sibylla Bus. For real, the bus company in Cumae is called Sybilla Bus, how cool is that!

Anyway, we drove off to the Piscina Mirabilis in Bacoli. Now that was really a sight to see, a hidden pearl and a truly amazing one! Since the Cape Misenum (Promunturium Misenum) was a naval basis in the Roman time, all those soldiers needed water. Fresh, clean, drinkable water, which was brought here from the mountains by the Aqua Augusta, a long aqueduct. But then, the water needed stored. So Agrippa let his architects and engineers divise a very clever and impressive Piscina, a water reservoir dug out in the mountain side, reinforced with columns and closed off. It’s huge, and you can walk around in it now. It’s, by the way, the starting point of Robert Harris’ Pompey (which I still need to read), and we could really imagine the boat on the water…

On our way back to the bus, we had a very nice view over the bay, a view which astounded me at the moment, but which – I’m sure – will definitely be improved the next couple of days. Oh, and I really had to take a picture of a pine tree to which, according to Plinius, the ash cloud of the Vesuvius bore a resemblance.

 

Next stop was the Museo Nazionale Archeologico di Napoli, in which we only got to spend a mere two hours. Leon – our trusted leader, as one of the guides pointed out – had warned us about that: we wouldn’t have enough time to even cover like a quarter of the museum, and we would really want to come back. As indeed, happened. I won’t post all of my pictures here, just a selection, but I took many more. Leon took us to several spots where he presented us with a real fine bit of explanation, drawing our attention to little details we never saw before, or feeding us exquisite little scraps of information.

After that, we returned to the Villa for a decent, warmly welcomed meal, and passed by the Arco Felice, a remains of an ancient 2nd century AD viaduct constructed by the emperor Domitianus, with still a lovely intact Roman road.

After coffee/tea we left again, this time really close – we could have walked, actually, were it not for the next visit we needed the bus for – to the Acropolis of Cumae. I thought the Piscina and the Museum already had blown my mind, but the afternoon just proved me wrong: going up on that lovely site, reading out the lines from Vergilius’ Aeneis, one could really feel the steps of Aeneas going up there to worship the gods, and we were retracing them. Standing in the temple of Apollo, we saw the coastline, heard the Latin verses of the ships mooring there, and we all kind of feeled really solemn. I think I even had goosebumps at a certain moment. It was so quiet, so serene, so beautiful, and yet so unbelievably familiar. This truly is the land of Vergilius…

And then we stood eye to eye with the entrance to the famous grotto of the Sybilla – which is, Leon hastened to burst the bubble, actually the beginning of fortifications high above the Cumae harbour. Yet, the place did inspire some awe, I must admit.

From there, it went to the Amphitheatre of Pozzuole, passing the famous (and sorely missed on Sunday, while I was lounging in different airports) Lacus Avernus, which Vergilius also describes in his Georgica as being one of the entrances of the Underworld. It’s actually an ancient crater which has filled up into a very nice lake. In Vergilius’ time it still must have been pretty sulphuric and poisonous though.

The amphitheater in itself was pretty special because you could really go in the catacombs, and see the way the wild animals would have been released into the arena. Oh, and apparently they did the Augias thingy to clean it, and let all the water from the Aqua Augusta run through it ^^

On our way down to the bus, we passed by the temple of Serapis, which is an excellent example of the height differences due to the volcanic activity: in the middle there’s a column that is full of shellfish holes, so at one point in history it must have been under water…

After a real nice stroll through the harbour and an icecream, we went back to the Villa for a really elaborate meal – think pasta, another dish of pasta, schnitzel and tiramisu – and a presentation by Merel about our assignments for the next day. Hey, it’s a study trip, not a holiday, so there are assignments! But I’ll tell you about those tomorrow, when we have completed them.

Anyway, this has been a very elaborate report of the first day, and my god, what a beautiful day it was!